Anderson Valley Winegrowers in the Press
 

"Located in southern Mendocino County, the Anderson Valley American Viticultural Area (AVA) is 15 miles long and follows the Navarro River to the Pacific Ocean. This AVA is classified as a "Region 1" growing area, which is - viticulturally speaking - the coolest climate that can successfully grow quality grapes on a large scale. The river helps temper temperature swings and creates cool nightly fog; combined with cooler mornings, the evening fog and warm sunny days allow the grapes to mature more slowly and develop full flavor while maintaining acidity. … we found much to recommend from the 50 wines submitted for this category."

-- Lynne Char Bennett
The San Francisco Chronicle, September 14 2007

"Cool, foggy Anderson Valley... has become a hot spot for Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and now crisp, Alsatian whites."

-- Sara Schneider
Sunset Magazine
"2007 Up-and-Coming Wine Region of the Year" September 2007

"When it comes to specific regions in 2005 I give the highest marks to Anderson Valley... Anderson Valley and Monterey are the smallest appellations, in both acreage and number of bottlings, yet both are making exquisite wines. ... As recently as five years ago, few would have dreamed that Golden-State-grown Pinot Noir could produce so many stunning wines this many years in a row. Who could ask for more?"

-- James Laube
The Wine Spectator
"An Elegant Year For California Pinot Noir" September 2007

"The hunt for America's most intriguing Pinot Noir continues This time 'round, Mendocino County is the search area, because the Northern California wine region is only now beginning to attract Pinotphiles who have long been showering their praise on their righteous red from such vaunted areas as Carneros, Russian River Valley, Santa Cruz Mountains, Santa Barbara County and most recently, Monterey County. ... Mendocino Pinot producers such as Navarro, Goldeneye, Husch, Greenwood Ridge, Claudia Springs, Handley, Lazy Creek, Harmonique and the revitalized Parducci are gradually showing the wine world that Pinot is not only possible from Anderson Valley, but it has what it takes to stand with its peers at the top echelon. As further proof that Anderson Valley Pinot Noir is the real deal, Napa's Cakebread Cellars and Sonoma's La Crema and Williams Selyem have added Anderson Valley Pinot Noirs to their lines."

-- Gerald Boyd
Wine Review Online
June/July 2007

"For many wine drinkers, wine's first duty is to be red. That's not the case in Alsace, in eastern France just across the Rhine River from Germany. Nor is it the case in Mendocino County's Anderson Valley, where the grapes of Alsace are making a splash. The starring grapes of Alsatian wines are Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc and Muscat. Because its climate is similar to that of Alsace, Anderson Valley is a great place to grow them. More importantly, there's an Alsatian attitude about these white varietals clearly evident in Anderson Valley."

-- Steve Pitcher
The San Francisco Chronicle
"Chilly Mendocino County nurtures the distinctive white grapes of northeastern France" January 12, 2006

"The word on Northern California’s Anderson Valley is that it’s what Napa used to be 30 years ago. The nearby town of Healdsburg acts as a sophisticated jumping-off point for this rural paradise, whose remote location and sleepy vibe are tempered by the buzz surrounding its wines. This is a destination tailor-made for the golden days of Indian summer. Lay of the Land ...Two-lane Highway 128, the main access to the Anderson Valley, twists and turns up a notorious set of steeply graded switchbacks, through rocky ridges and moss-covered oaks. Twenty or so miles later, you’ll emerge onto the valley floor in Boonville, the region’s largest town (all seven blocks of it). Snatches of Boontling, a dialect developed in the 1800’s, still persist—a reminder of the area’s quirky, somewhat insular nature. The even smaller hamlet of Philo consists of a beloved Mexican restaurant, a tasting room for limited-edition Pinots, and Lemons’ Market, where Tom Lemons sells his own line-caught salmon. At the valley’s northernmost edge, tiny Navarro feels like something out of a fairy tale: a village deep in the red-woods, with a river that runs to the sea. ... Spotlight: Anderson Valley Wine Tour Don’t let the aw-shucks, mom-and-pop atmosphere of these tasting rooms fool you—this region is a must for oenophiles in the know. 1. Standish Wine Co. The most photogenic tasting room in the valley, in a 19th-century wooden building once used for drying apples. 5101 Hwy. 128, Philo; 707/895-9213. 2. Breggo Cellars The name means “sheep” in Boontling—a nod to the property’s former life as one of the oldest sheep ranches in the region. 11001 Hwy. 128, Boonville; 707/895-9589; breggo.com. 3. Phillips Hill Estates Remarkable Pinots made by artist Toby Hill (grab his ’07 Marguerite—if you can get it). 8627 Hwy. 128, Philo; 707/895-2209; phillipshillestates.com. 4. Toulouse Vineyards Founded by retired fire captain Vern Boltz, this small, deceptively humble operation produces much-lauded wines and exceptional grapes. 8001 Hwy. 128, Philo; 707/895-2828. 5. Navarro Vineyards A popular draw for its affordable whites and outdoor picnic tables under trellised grapevines. 5601 Hwy. 128, Philo; 800/537-9463; navarrowine.com. 6. Husch Vineyards An Anderson Valley pioneer, housed in a charmingly rustic converted barn. 4400 Hwy. 128, Philo; 800/554-8724; huschvineyards.com. 7. Roederer Estate From the French makers of Cristal: sparkling wines at a much more budget-friendly price, in the valley’s poshest setting. 4501 Hwy. 128, Philo; 707/895-2288; roedererestate.com. 8. Esterlina Vineyards & Winery Located in the hills, with panoramic views. Tastings are accompanied by bowls of Goldfish and Cheetos—a savory (if irreverent) touch. 1200 Holmes Ranch Rd., Philo; 707/895-2920; esterlinavineyards.com; by appointment only."

-- Irene Edwards
Travel + Leisure
"3 West Coast Weekend Getaways" October 2009

"Anderson Valley was once a quiet, rustic haven, shut to outsiders but for a long, winding low road and a vertiginous, winding high road. In the 1800s, the local Boontling dialect was invoked to confound outsiders. A century later, the valley's foggy, redwood-lined slopes became a magnet for lovers of a subtler style of Pinot Noir. The outside world has arrived in more ways than one. That Pinot style has been shifting for at least the past five years. As big Pinot names have turned their gaze north to Mendocino, the wines have gotten bigger and oakier, alcohol levels have crept higher, and fruit flavors have shifted from red to black. Yet in our latest tasting of Mendocino County Pinots, with Anderson Valley in the leading role, we seem to have discovered a detente of sorts. Many wines are indeed bigger. More than a few showed the same problems that have hit Pinot regions like Santa Barbara - an excess of oak, alcohol and ripeness that turns Pinot's near-magic transparency into something gloppy. The more ambitious the pricing - this time it topped out around $75 - the more likely the glop. To consider a lineup of more than 50 wines, I was joined by Eric Railsback, one of the sommeliers at RN74 in San Francisco, who previously worked in Los Angeles at Osteria Mozza and Gordon Ramsay's The London. A superb 2007 vintage offered the chance for greatness, and our best luck came with the growing number of single-vineyard bottlings emerging from Anderson Valley. When ripeness was handled with skill (and these are wines that can approach 15 percent alcohol), we found exceptional efforts that, if not inexpensive, will provide great pleasure now or after a few years of aging. Think gift-worthy. That successful focus on site was rewarding to see. California Pinot has become cluttered by vineyard designates, but our Anderson Valley lineup made a strong case for the practice. We witnessed multiple interpretations of some well-known sites: Ferrington, Toulouse, Savoy. Rather than being a fetishization of place, these have legitimately earned their stripes. There was less success with the blended wines, often marked simply as Anderson Valley. Along with fame has come a handful of wines made on a larger scale - up to 15,000 cases - that can top $50. For a once-low-key place, these are wines seemingly made for (and by) what in Boontling jargon might be called the "high-pockety." Mercifully, some familiar names like Navarro and Copain still enjoy success with their larger-scale bottlings, with reasonable prices. They uphold Anderson Valley's good name. So do newer names like Boonville's Breggo Cellars (Boontling for "sheep"), Healdsburg-based James MacPhail and Jason Drew. Drew, with his wife, Molly, runs a tiny operation in the seaside hamlet of Elk, due west of the valley. He produces increasingly compelling Pinots under 14 percent alcohol, including his Fog Eater blend (Boontling again) and a new effort from the Monument Tree vineyard in the valley's northern "deep end." Their success signals Anderson Valley's forward potential. Its cloak of obscurity may be gone, but its ability to produce deep, edgy Pinot Noir hasn't wavered. 2007 Black Kite Redwoods' Edge Anderson Valley Pinot Noir ($52) The first scent of an ever-evolving nose is evocatively char-tinged, like a burning field at harvest, leading to toasted baking spices. It's a shape-shifter, always changing, with very ripe fruit flavors but a masterful approach. 2007 Breggo Savoy Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir ($55) Douglas Ian Stewart and consultant Ryan Hodgins have found a rewarding middle-ground style for Stewart's Boonville winery. There's lots of ripe fruit but persistent brightness. Leathery and muscular, with a core of boysenberry and distinct mineral weight. 2006 Chronicle Cerise Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir ($48) OK, I admit - we like the name. But this effort sourced from a south-facing site above Boonville has not only a great fruit pedigree but also the skilled hand of Littorai's Ted Lemon making the wine. The ripe cherry flavors have an invigorating tension, edged by complex aromas: pine cone, sweet cherry, fresh flowers and marmalade. 2007 Copain Tous Ensemble Anderson Valley Pinot Noir ($30) Wells Guthrie's blend includes fruit from the Cerise, Monument Tree and Wentzel sites. Leafy, huckleberry-tinged high tones mix with a truffly earth undercurrent. A great example of the valley's subtler expression. 2007 Drew Fog Eater Anderson Valley Pinot Noir ($42) A floral punch adds tension to bright flavors of shaved cherry ice and an intense dry-earth complexity. Drew's limited Monument Tree ($42) bottling took time to open but blossomed into sweet huckleberry and dense forest-floor scents. Both are momentous and cellar-worthy. 2007 Elke Donnelly Creek Anderson Valley Pinot Noir ($34) Grower Mary Elke's home vineyard was in fine form in 2007, making for an affordable single-site effort. Full of vibrant moss-tinged strawberry, with soy and lavender accents and an orange-like twang. 2007 Foursight Clone 05 Anderson Valley Pinot Noir ($49) The Charles family has quickly left its imprint with its new label. They isolated fruit from their Pommard clone and gave it extra oak. The result is smoky and heady, with allspice and cocoa accents on a dark-fruited base. Finessed tannins make it immediately drinkable. 2006 Londer Paraboll Anderson Valley Pinot Noir ($54) A supple take on Londer's often robust style, with notable oak presence but a generous dose of sweet, rich strawberry flavors. Very well done. 2007 MacPhail Toulouse Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir ($50) James MacPhail's Anderson Valley bottlings show that power doesn't mean sacrificing nuance. With 40 percent new oak, this one from a site in Philo is a fine example with its extraordinary nose: bergamot, fenugreek, forest-floor and damp soil, with rich black fruit flavors and a soft depth. Remarkably intriguing in its layers. The Ferrington ($60) is almost as dense and full of rich spice. 2006 Navarro Methode a l'Ancienne Anderson Valley Pinot Noir ($29) This classic bottling harks back to Anderson Valley's more low-key style. Cinnamon-tinged black cherry gets depth from firm mineral notes and an orange-peel lift. Needs time. 2007 Phillips Hill Corby Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir ($40) Artist Toby Hill again finds a powerful Pinot expression, with bright red fruit highlights and a rich earthy tone giving it momentum. His 2007 Oppenlander ($42) is more brooding and meaty. 2007 Roessler Blue Jay Anderson Valley Pinot Noir ($32) Roessler's Anderson Valley blend opens with slightly overripe fruit, but cola spice and an appealingly musky black cherry note provide a deep, luscious quality. 2006 Saint Gregory Mendocino County Pinot Noir ($19) Greg Graziano uses mostly Potter Valley fruit in this approachable effort, with a bit coming from the Yorkville Highlands. A bit sharp at first, but with solid red fruit flavors."

-- Jon Bonne
The San Francisco Chronicle
"Anderson Valley Pinot Noir" September 20, 2009

"Perhaps they're not the first place you think of when it comes to wineries, but these four regions offer character and great wine, without the hoopla. Twisting from Cloverdale, California, to the Pacific Ocean, a 16-mile portion of Highway 128 passes through the organic apple orchards, olive groves, and redwood forests of Anderson Valley. Some of the more than 20 vineyards along the way supply pinot noir grapes for famous wineries in Napa and Sonoma, but you can taste similar vintages at the farm-style Anderson wineries -- minus the popped-collar crowds. Navarro Vineyards lets babydoll sheep (too petite to reach the fruit) graze under the vines, and free-range chickens wander the vineyards to help keep pests under control. Daily tours of the grounds and tastings of the star wines -- pinot noir and dry Alsatian-style whites -- are both free (navarrovineyards.com). About 10 miles northwest along the highway, gewürztraminer grapes thrive in the rich soil and foggy mornings at Lazy Creek Vineyards. Longtime owners of Sonoma's Ferrari-Carano Vineyards and Winery, Don and Rhonda Carano, acquired the rural estate last year (lazycreekvineyards.com, tastings free). Nearby, Husch Vineyards -- the oldest in the valley, and owned by the Oswald family -- has 10 picnic tables: some in the sun, some sheltered under vine-covered pergolas. Past an arch of roses, the family pours complimentary samples of sauvignon blanc and pinot noir in a century-old redwood tasting room (huschvineyards.com). Like their neighbors to the north, Bob and Linda Klein also run a vineyard and farm at LindaVista Bed & Breakfast in Yorkville (a separate wine region in the Anderson Valley). Each of the two huge suites in their 6,000-square-foot French Victorian-style inn comes with a queen-size bed, a separate sitting room with a daybed and trundle, a full bath, and mountain views (lindavista.com, $150). Along the route, you can stop for one of 60 varieties of apples at Gowan's Oak Tree, on an orchard just north of Philo (707/895-3353). -- Alison Rohrs"

-- Thomas Berger, Beth Collins and Alison Rohrs
Budget Travel
"4 Wine Country Contenders" September 2009

"Gewurztraminer occupies a special niche in California Its fans are enthusiastically loyal. It's often as expensive as some other top whites - in the $16 to $27 range - which makes selling it to the uninitiated a daunting effort. The Teutonic name leads to an erroneous suspicion that the wine is always sweet. Yet Gewurztraminer producers persist in their efforts. It can only be attributed to a labor of love. "We feel lucky to have about 2 1/2 acres of the 1,670 acres of Gewurztraminer planted in California," says Peter McCrea, proprietor of Stony Hill Vineyards in St. Helena. "But then compare that to the 470,000-acre total of wine grapes in the state and you have to ask yourself, 'Why so little Gewurztraminer?' when with one taste you realize what a distinctive wine it is." That Gewurz still exists in these vineyards, given the opportunity to make more money by replanting with more lucrative varieties, speaks volumes about the passion of these producers. Husch Vineyards even went so far in 2004 as to convert a 4-acre Anderson Valley vineyard from Chardonnay to Gewurztraminer. Imagine that. Deborah Cahn and Ted Bennett, proprietors of Navarro Vineyards, fell in love with Gewurztraminer while touring in Alsace in the 1970s. "It became our favorite white wine," Cahn recalls. They planted it in their vineyard in 1974, on the site of a onetime sheep ranch. It soon became Navarro's flagship wine. Quite a mouthful As to the name, it's often shortened in conversation to "Gewurz" (ge-VERTS). Its fragrance is pleasantly distinctive and instantly recognizable, inasmuch as Gewurz represents the pinnacle of exotic aromatics in fine wine. With its pleasantly distinctive spice aromas and little new oak, Gewurz may be the ultimate chilled picnic wine and accompanies ham and sausages with aplomb. It's equally at home with savory pork preparations; some spicy Asian, Cajun or Mexican fare; and Alsatian creations like choucroute garnie, the sauerkraut and sausage dish. Most high-quality California Gewurz is made in a dry style with less than 1 percent residual sugar, following the model long established in the Alsace region of France. Such wines often come from lovingly tended estate vineyards, most located in Mendocino's Anderson Valley, plus a few in Sonoma County and at least one in Napa Valley. European origins Gewurztraminer is grown in several countries - it started out in northern Italy as Traminer, gaining the modifier "Gewurz," German for spice, as it migrated to Germany and Alsace - but achieves its greatest distinction in Alsace. Anderson Valley - Gewurz central in the USA - is close behind, lacking only the diverse soil types and exposures of grand cru Alsace vineyards that yield wines with discernable multiple personalities. Each February, the Anderson Valley Winegrowers Association holds its International Alsace Varietals Festival. The 2007 vintage was showcased this year, and what a sublime revelation it was. Mindful of the need to replenish my nearly exhausted supply of Gewurz, I sampled the 15 wines and came away with the conviction that 2007 was a great vintage, the greatest ever for Anderson Valley's Gewurztraminers. Warm and cool "If there's a grape that's really affected by vintage, it's Gewurztraminer - even more so than Pinot Noir," explains Milla Handley of Handley Cellars in Philo, who first produced a Gewurztraminer in 1987. Handley uses grapes from a mix of warmer and cooler sites to deepen the complexity. "In a cooler year like 2007, the valley's Gewurztraminer is much more complex," she says, with tropical fruit flavors of a warm year and the delicate nuances of a cool year. What else accounts for the stellar vintage? Ryan Hodgins, winemaker at Breggo Cellars in Boonville, explains that rainfall in 2007 was significantly below average, which stressed the vines and concentrated the fruit, "resulting in great flavor and intensity." A cooler summer gave the grapes more time to ripen, which allowed greater flavor development. Sixth-generation vintner Jeff Bundschu, who's responsible for the ultimate wine tongue twister - Gundlach Bundschu Gewurztraminer - credits smaller, more intense grapes, which led to "wines of astounding concentration and expression," he says. Though quantities of the 2007s are diminishing, three cheerful circumstances remain: There is still some left; several wineries are discounting their 2007s to make way for 2008s; and the 2008s seem to resemble the 2007s in terms of quality. This is a golden opportunity for Gewurz fans and for those who don't know what they've been missing all these years - all because of the dedication of California's Gewurztraminer producers. A sampling of Gewurz 2007 Arista Anderson Valley Gewurztraminer ($25). Charming nose of ripe pear, honeydew melon, lychee and wilted roses tinged with spice. Rich and unctuous, yet dry. 2007 Breggo Anderson Valley Gewurztraminer ($25). Heady scents of rose petals, honeysuckle, white fruits and orange zest. Seventy percent was barrel-fermented in 3-year-old French oak. 2007 Gundlach Bundschu Estate Vineyard Sonoma Valley Gewurztraminer ($26). Forward aromas of lychee, coconut, orange zest and spice. Cascades of spicy fruit. The leaner 2008 version ($22.50) shows more citrus. 2007 Handley Anderson Valley Gewurztraminer ($18). Aromas of white melon, lychee and wilted roses are replicated on a plush palate, which is enlivened by layers of spice, grapefruit and white peaches. 2007 Husch T-Bud Dry Cuvée Anderson Valley Gewurztraminer ($16). From a 4-acre vineyard converted from Chardonnay to Gewurz, this offers intense floral aromas of rose petals and ginger. 2007 Londer Anderson Valley Dry Gewurztraminer ($26). Bold, attractive aromas of rose petals and lemon verbena tinged with ginger. Crisp and nearly bone-dry with a subtle bitterness. Could use at least two years of cellaring. 2007 Navarro Estate Dry Anderson Valley Gewurztraminer ($19). The winery's flagship wine is plush, yet quite dry, with deep, juicy flavors of pear and stone fruit tinged with spice. 2007 Stony Hill Estate Napa Valley Gewurztraminer ($21). Crisp and clean in the mouth, finishing with a flourish of white pepper."

-- Steve Pitcher
The San Francisco Chronicle
"Gewurztraminer's passionate California devotees" August 2, 2009

"Wisps of river fog, rising from the Navarro River, veiled the Anderson Valley as we descended along the narrow ribbon of Highway 128. The valley opened as vineyards climbed their way up the gentle folds of tawny pelt-like hills. The morning sun was quickly melting the fog, revealing curly furred sheep, and flocks of wild turkey. A herd of deer clustered under rings of oaks behind an old split rail fence that zigzagged along the pasture. We felt transported to an earlier and slower paced era in California’s history as we walked up the creaky wooden plank steps of the Boonville Hotel . This California classic was originally built in 1862 as an elegant stagecoach overnight for travelers heading to the towns of Mendocino and Fort Bragg.Were we somehow transported to rural France or Italy? No, Boonville, a quaint and curious remnant of old California just three hours north of San Francisco. Owner/chef Johnny Schmitt greeted us with the welcome query, “Would you like lunch inside or outside?” I was ravenous. ... Pared with the meal was a Pinot gris, from Navarro Vineyards, an amber-rose colored liquid that twined around the flavors of salty lardon bits, piquant jalapeno pieces, chunks of summery tomato and the multi-colored basil folded into the pasta. California now has several wine countries. The Anderson Valley being the country cousin of Napa and Sonoma but all the more delightful as the conga line of tourists is missing. ...After touring several wineries, our massage appointments lured us back to the Boonville Hotel like birds coming to roost. ... If you’re planning a visit to the Anderson Valley why not extend your visit to take in some of the other attractions in the area? Navarro Vineyards makes superb wines. ... Anderson Valley Wine Growers has details maps and lists of the wineries in the valley."

-- Lisa Alpine
The San Francisco Examiner
"Anderson Valley: the other wine country" July 14, 2009

"Exciting Pinot Noirs are emerging from several different wine regions in California today, as well as from Oregon. But a region we hear little about might be one of the best: Anderson Valley. ... In addition to becoming known for its sparkling wines, Anderson Valley acquired a quiet reputation for its Germanic varieties, Riesling and Gewurztraminer. The Valley's cool climate suited these varieties perfectly. In fact, Anderson Valley still remains one of the few wine regions in the world that can successfully produce dry-style Gewurztraminers, in my opinion. The region was slower to discover its potential for Pinot Noir. But the sudden, new-found popularity of Pinots in California during the past 10 to 15 years has had a big impact on Anderson Valley as well; Pinot Noir planting has quadrupled here in the past 15 years -- aided by good wine reviews in the press. Many esteemed wine producers -- particularly from Sonoma County but also from Napa Valley -- discovered the ideal growing conditions of Anderson Valley. Today, Williams Selyem, Littorai, Duckhorn (with Goldeneye), Cakebread, La Crema, Adrian Fog, Siduri, and Copain are some of the famed producers from outside the Valley who are making Anderson Valley Pinot Noirs. Why has Anderson Valley become a hot spot for Pinot Noir? In one word, climate! Anderson Valley has the coolest year-round climate of any winegrowing region in California. Amazingly, temperatures can fall 40 to 50 degrees at night. This temperature range enables Pinot Noir grapes to retain their acidity throughout the long, warm summer and autumn. Grapes ripen slowly and develop intense flavors. The westernmost part of Anderson Valley, closest to the Mendocino Coast, has the coolest climate, and that's where many Pinot Noir vineyards are situated -- close to the majestic, coastal Redwoods. Classic Anderson Valley Pinot Noirs are characterized by crispness and natural acidity; as a group, they tend to be somewhat leaner in style and exhibit more earthiness than the plusher, fruitier Russian River Valley Pinots from Sonoma. I have just returned from a visit to Anderson Valley, where I attended its fairly new, annual Pinot Noir Festival. I tasted 35 Pinot Noirs at a press tasting, and it proved to be very illuminating. I discovered a few real gems, some of which I tasted for the first time. A few general impressions: • Just as in other California wine regions, the 2007 vintage is turning out to be superb in Anderson Valley! Local producers are very excited about their '07 Pinot Noirs. • The 2006 vintage appears to have done better for Pinot Noir in Anderson Valley than in other California regions to the south, where it was often a bit too warm. In many cases, I found the 2006 Anderson Valley Pinots almost on a par with the superb 2007s. Conversely, the very cool 2005 vintage, a fantastic year for Pinot Noirs throughout most California regions, is merely very good in Anderson Valley, but not nearly the standout that 2007 has become. • Just as in Russian River Valley, Carneros, and Santa Barbara, the Pinot Noirs of Anderson Valley are a very mixed bag when it comes to style. You will find powerful, jammy, highly extracted, dark-colored Pinot Noirs here in Anderson Valley, just as in other regions throughout California, but mercifully, this is not the dominant style here. I was happy to find many restrained, subtle, less fruity Pinot Noirs, the style I prefer -- especially with dinner -- which I recommend below. • There are no truly inexpensive Anderson Valley Pinot Noirs; on the other hand, there are few very expensive (say, retailing for over $60) Pinots, either. A vast majority of very fine Pinot Noirs fall into the $23 to $50 retail price range. I list the Anderson Valley Pinot Noirs I tasted in alphabetical order, and include a brief description and the wine's approximate retail price. All of the wines I tasted merited a rating from the high 80s to the mid-90s. I indicate the rating of those wines to which I awarded 90 points or more: Baxter, Run Dog Vineyard, 2007, $45: Baxter, which makes only small-lot single-vineyard Pinot Noirs, was one of my most rewarding discoveries. A brooding, classic Anderson Valley Pinot made from low yields. I loved this wine; it was lean, with excellent acidity and outstanding, dark fruit flavors. Simply delicious! It will be released in September 2009. 94 Black Kite Cellars, River Turn Vineyard 2007, $52: River Turn, one of Black Kite Cellars' three single-vineyard Pinot Noirs, is a lighter-styled, very pleasant wine with distinct raspberry flavors. A very typical Anderson Valley-styled Pinot Noir. 90 Breggo Cellars, Ferrington Vineyard, 2007, $55: Breggo's '07 Ferrington Vineyard is an interesting mix of the classic Anderson Valley restrained style combined with intense fruitiness. Another winner from the 2007 vintage. 91 Brutocao Vineyards 2006, $26: More renowned for its Zinfandels and Cal-Italian varietals, Brutocao also makes a reasonably-priced, fruitier-styled estate Pinot Noir from Anderson Valley. Cakebread Cellars 2006, $50: Cakebread's '06 estate Pinot Noir is a big, rich, fruity, concentrated wine with spicy, black fruit flavors. Claudia Springs Winery, Klindt Vineyard 2006, $35: Claudia Springs' '06 Klindt Vineyard is a classic, lean Anderson Valley Pinot, not overly fruity, with good acidity and decent concentration. 90 Couloir Wines, Roma's Vineyard, 2007, $44: An impressive wine, made in the classic Valley style. A blend of black and red fruit flavors; well-balanced and well-made. One of the best. 92 Demuth Winery 2005, $40: A very fine, elegant Pinot Noir which exhibits both black and red fruit flavors. Only suffers a bit in comparison to the excellent 2007s. Drew Family Cellars, Monument Tree Vineyard, 2007, $42: The newer-styled Anderson Valley Pinot Noir, dark cherry red in color, with intense, fruity, concentrated flavors. Elke Vineyards, Donnelly Creek, 2006, $38: One of my favorite wines from the tasting; classic Anderson Valley, with zinging acidity, lovely fruit, made in an elegant, restrained style, with a definite resemblance to Burgundy. Great Pinot Noir (and the 2007 Elke Donnelly Creek I tasted later was even better, 94/95!). 93 Esterlina Vineyards 2007, $45: Esterlina's estate Pinot Noir is made in the classic Anderson Valley style, lean, not overly fruity, and elegant, very correct. Enjoyable now. 90 Foursight Wines, Charles Vineyard, 'All-In' 2007, $46: A fairly new winery with a nice portfolio of wines. The 'all-in' name refers to the fact that Foursight has blended in all four Pinot Noir clones grown on its estate. Its '07 is a pleasant, medium-weight wine that is enjoyable to drink now. Goldeneye Winery, Gowan Creek Vineyard, 2006, $55: Goldeneye, owned by Duckhorn, makes three Anderson Valley single-vineyard Pinots, and Gowan Creek is clearly its best. It's a modern-styled, fruit-driven wine made with 77% new oak. A fine wine, but I'd prefer less oak. 90 Greenwood Ridge Vineyards, 2007, $30: One of the wineries that carries the Mendocino Ridge AVA (a higher elevation). Made in the lean, classic, elegant style. Handley Cellars, Holmes Ranch, 2006, $40: Handley Cellars, one of the early wineries (1982), has been consistently reliable throughout the years. Milla Handley makes several Pinot Noirs, but her Holmes Ranch is my clear favorite. It's made in the classic style, lean and elegant, with delicious fruitiness, but definitely not over the top. 92 Harmonique, 'Elegancé,' 2005, $53: Made from two of Harmonique's vineyards, Elegancé made its debut in the 2005 vintage. It is quite delicious, with its lush, dark fruit well-balanced with good acid levels. A touch less new oak would be nice. 90 Harrington Wines, Wiley Vineyard, 2007, $40: Wiley Vineyard is one of the westernmost vineyards in the Anderson Valley, in the very cool area known as the 'Deep End.' I liked this wine very much; it's classically constructed, lean and elegant, with fine acidity, and dense black fruit flavors. A real discovery for me. 92 Husch Vineyards, 2007, $23: The first winery to plant Pinot Noir in Anderson Valley, over 37 years ago. Classy, medium-bodied Pinot Noir; well-balanced, with red and black fruit flavors and substantial acidity. Nationally distributed; easy to find. Also, a great value! 90 Jim Ball Vineyards, 'Signature,' 2007 (Price not available): Quite fruit-forward and soft, could benefit some with more acidity. La Crema, 2007, $50: Well-made, competent Pinot Noir; a bit too fruit-forward for me. Lazy Creek Vineyards 2007, $39: (Lazy Creek was purchased by Ferrari-Carano in July, 2008. Ferrari-Carano has continued making wines under the Lazy Creek name in addition to establishing its own winery in Anderson Valley. I report on Ferrari-Carano's Pinot Noir at the end of this review.) The 2007 Lazy Creek is a lovely, classic Pinot made up on Mendocino Ridge. 91 Londer Vineyards, 'Paraboll,' 2007, $54: I've always liked Londer's Pinot Noirs, but the 2007 Paraboll, made from Ferrington and Valley Foothills Vineyards, is styled in a very rich, powerful mode--a bit too over-the-top for me. Navarro Vineyards, 'Deep End Blend,' 2007, $49: A decent Pinot Noir, but not a standout in this group. Sold at the winery or by mailing list. Phillips Hill Estates, Corby Vineyard, 2007, $40: A small winery making very good, classy Pinot Noir, lean, luscious, and very fine! The 2007 Corby Vineyard is well-balanced, and has a long finish. 92 Philo Ridge, 2005, $32: Another small winery, making its Pinot Noirs from the renowned Ferrington Vineyard. Good wine, a bit soft. Perhaps suffers in comparison to the 2007s. Raye's Hill Vineyards, Henneberg Vineyard, 2005, $26: A competent Pinot Noir from a small winery located in the deep end of the Valley. Well-priced. Roederer Estate, 2006, $24: Let's face it, Roederer Estate is in the sparkling wine business, and its best grapes go there. A decent, easy-drinking Pinot Noir, but not a standout in this group. Roessler Cellars, Hein Family Vineyard, 2007, $45: Made in a fruit-forward style, not the style I prefer. It lacks the tight structure of the best Pinots in this group. Saintsbury, Cerise Vineyard, 2007, $45: Although I'm a big fan of Saintsbury's Carneros Pinot Noir, its Cerise Vineyard from Anderson Valley, although well-made, is a bit too fruit-driven for me. Scharffenberger Cellars, 2004, $23: Why Scharffenberger (now owned by Roederer Estate) chose to show its 2004 is a mystery to me. Of course, its main business is also sparkling wine. At least it's well-priced. Standish Wine Co., Bosc Block, Day Ranch, 2007, $70: One of the smallest wineries (only 48 cases) and the most expensive Pinot Noir in the group. Made in the newer, fruit-driven style. Toulouse Vineyards, 2007, $42: A popular winery in the Valley, with many other wineries using its fruit. A full-bodied, fruit-forward wine, a bit too ripe for me. But I can understand why many like this wine. Waits-Mast Family Cellars, Wentzel Vineyard, 2007, $42: Only 25 cases produced. A fruit-forward wine, a bit soft, with a long finish. Woodenhead Vintners, Wiley Vineyard, 2006, $60: A crowd pleaser. Quite delicious, fruit-driven Pinot. A bit over-priced. Zina Hyde Cunningham, 2005, $48: This was one of the better 2005s, for me. Made in the lean, classic style, with good fruit concentration. 90 To summarize, I rated the following Pinot Noirs in the tasting the best: Baxter 2007, Elke 2006 and 2007, Couloir 2007, Handley, Holmes Ranch 2006, Harrington 2007, and Phillips Hill, Corby Vineyard 2007. In an earlier visit, I tasted Littorai's three Anderson Valley 2007 single-vineyard Pinot Noirs -- Savoy, Cerise, and Roman Vineyards -- and rated them all in the low 90s. After the tasting, I also tried Copain's 2007 Pinot Noir (91) and Ferrari-Carano's 2007 Sky Ranch (92) from Mendocino Ridge. I'm really impressed with Ferrari-Carano; it's only their second vintage, and they've gotten off to a running start, making Pinot Noirs in the classic style. I also tasted MacPhail Family Wines 2007 Toulouse Vineyard, but found it a bit too fruit-driven for me. That's it. Anderson Valley presented a varied lot of Pinot Noirs to me, but in general, I was very impressed with the 2007s, and made some wonderful discoveries, such as Baxter, Harrington Wines, and Elke Vineyards."

-- Ed McCarthy
Wine Review Online
"The Pinot Noirs of Anderson Valley" May 26, 2009

"Pinot noir fans in Nothern California don't have to go far to enjoy the wealth of wine styles and price points available from Anderson Valley producers. The expressive and well-crafted pinots from this coastal valley and it's surrounding sub appellations make experimenting with several producers a low-risk proposition. Each year, fans from around the state and the country converge on the hamlets of Mendocino, Boonville and Philo for the Anderson Valley Pinot Noir Festival which includes a technical conference, three days of al fresco wining and dining, and total pinot noir immersion. The only caveat is that some producers make very limited amounts of wine in which case, you'll have to source those wines directly from the winery or keep an eye out for them on wine lists after they have been snapped up by sommeliers. Here's short list of some notable current releases listed alphabetically across three price categories. $29 and under Brutocao Vineyards Anderson Valley Pinot Noir $26 Characterized by sweet, ripe dark plum, a lean mid-palate, subtle hints of oak on a long finish Husch Vineyards $23 Touch of earth on the nose with bold fruit mid-palate and spicy, stuctured tannins Raye's Hill Heneberg Vineyard $26 Appealing nose, hints of dried fruit, expressive on the palate with a persistant finish Roederer Estate $26 Delicate aromas, lean, bright fruit on the palate for a taut, racy style $30 - $49 Baxter Run Dog $45 Violet-hued, toasty black cherry aromas followed by a rich black fruit core and caramel finish Elke Donnell Creek $38 Elegant nose, savory and ripe with a lithe structure Esterlina Estate $40 Ripe cherry, cola and pomegranate with rich, spicy tannins Greenwood Mendocino Ridge $30 Ripe cherry, lean, meaty mid-palate with spicy tannins and a touch of sweet fruit on the finish Handley Holmes Ranch $30 Earthy aromas, savory tannins with restrained fruit and complex oak flavors, intriguing Roessler Hein Family $45 Expressive aromas of strawberry, bursting mid-palate of same and ripe, cocoa-dusted tannins $50 and over Cakebread Cellars $50 Aromas of cherry and umami, ripe but leaner on the palate with bright acidity and savory finish Goldeneye Gowan Creek $55 Earthy, mineral aromas, restrained fruit, medium tannins, note of pencil shavings on the finish"

-- Deborah Parker Wong
The San Francisco Examiner
"You don't have to go far for Pinot Noir" May 21, 2009